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Posted on: Sunday, June 26, 2005

What's for dinner?

No question about it. We're a population focused on grinding. With more than 1,000 restaurants — from "holes-in-the-wall" to "mom-and-pop" eateries to family to casual to fine dining, the culinary possibilities seem endless — just like our appetites.

Foods of all kinds are represented here. American, French, Vietnamese, Korean, Thai, Italian, German, Japanese, Chinese, Mexican, Filipino, Greek ... the list goes on and on. And, of course, Pacific Rim cuisine brought Hawai'i into the national and international culinary spotlight, with the Roys, Alans, Padovanis, Mavros and Sams heralded today as our very own celebrity chefs.

While the images of duck l'orange, steak tartare and tiramisu may make your mouth water, we sometimes long for the old familiar favorites. Let's dig in to some of those basic staples of our Island home.

Cookbooks have been based on it. So, too, have culinary contests. Even a "Mr. or Ms. SPAM" pageant drew contestants from across Hawai'i's eight islands.

Yes, SPAM, that gelatinous, pink pork brick has been a major source of nutrition — and butt of jokes (sorry, no pun intended) — among Island residents since it was introduced here during World War II.

But locals can't survive on SPAM alone.

Rice is another staple that can be found in every kitchen cupboard, as is a Costco-size jar of mayonnaise that's used to make a batch of mac salad.

Widely available across the island — even at neighborhood 7-11 stores — manapua, arare (crunchy mochi) and assorted sushi also make the "favorite" list.

Tourists call it a snow cone, we like to call it shave ice, another must-have, especially during sweltering, trade wind-less days.

While Leonard Rego popularized the much-beloved malassada, Shiro "Mistah Saimin" Matsuo popularized saimin. And no one has done more for poke than Sam Choy has.

This list may be manini, but at least it meets all diet requirements, that is if you're local.

CHEF'S FAVORITES

Alan Wong

Alan Wong methodically breaks down his other favorite picks according to cuisine. He chooses Hong Kong Harbour View in Aloha Tower Marketplace for Chinese and Sorabol on Keeaumoku Street for Korean.


OnJin Kim

OnJin Kim named Olive Tree Cafe in Kahala and Sushi Ogame on Sheridan Street as two other places she likes to visit.


Chai Chaowasaree

Every Sunday after church service, the Chaowasaree family retreats to Panda Cuisine on Keeaumoku Street for an afternoon lunch, according to Chai Chaowasaree of Chai's Island Bistro and Singha Thai Cuisine.

In the evening, it's a toss-up between Fook Yuen Seafood Restaurant in McCully Shopping Center, and Gyu-Kaku on Kapiolani Boulevard.


Sam Choy

Hawai'i's jovial chef Sam Choy, who likes to place an emphasis on ohana, provides two of his old-time favorites, including Best Drive-In on Sand Island and Kotobuki Coffee Shop in Kapahulu.


D.K. Kodama

Laughing, D.K. Kodama says he, wife Lori and their two "cheeses," Brie and Chevre, love to eat out and have way too many favorite places. Aside from Seoul Garden Yakiniku, Kodama cites Hale Vietnam in Kaimuki and Boulevard Saimin in Kalihi.


Wayne Hirabayashi

For a family breakfast, Kahala Mandarin Oriental, Hawai'i's executive chef Wayne Hirabayashi says he likes to take his five-year-old daughter Shyen and his wife to Like Like Drive Inn on Keeaumoku Street or any one of the three Big City Diners.

FINE DINING

Still dressed in their wedding attire, a newlywed couple walks into a restaurant. Whipping out a white linen tablecloth, setting down two champagne flutes and a full set of fine European cutlery, they proceed to place their order — two square hamburgers, two orders of curly fries and a couple of thick vanilla shakes.

No one told this uninformed pair that Wendy's is not exactly the epitome of fine dining.

So what is? Is it the scene? Is it the food? Is it the price? The answer: all of the above. And many O'ahu restaurants satisfy these criteria. Here's a list of these fine establishments (and no, Wendy's is not included).

La Mer

As Hawai'i's only Automobile Association of America's Five Diamond restaurant, La Mer (923-2311) often tops Island residents' lists for fine dining.

Here, guests have the pleasure of knowing that their dinner is being prepared by a Michelin-starred chef who once held the role as "Culinary Ambassador" for Monaco and who has cooked for the royal family of Monaco.

The "Menu Degustation" is an absolute gastronomic feast that requires hours to get through.

Hanohano Room

Perched atop the Sheraton Waikiki (921-4600), the Hanohano Room has long been known for its extraordinary sunset and Diamond Head views. The Continental/Regional Island Cuisine menu presents modern classics, including chef Ron Amasol's signature Hanohano stuffed tournedos.

Bali by the Sea

Bali by the Sea (949-4321)) chef Roberto Los Banos may not have cooked for European royalty, but he has prepared a meal for former President Bill Clinton. And no, he didn't serve him french fries, but his signature ahi trap and sauteed opakapaka.

Alan Wong's

Awards and accolades have been heaped on Alan Wong, whose namesake restaurant (949-2526) is noted for its innovative menu that showcases such items as ginger-crusted onaga and "Da Bag" — clams and kalua pig steamed in a pouch and pierced tableside with drama and flair.

Chef Mavro

Located steps from Alan Wong's is Chef Mavro ( 944-4714), another multiple-award-winning fine-dining establishment.

Marseilles-born George Mavrothalassitis takes local products to a je-ne-sais-quoi level!

Roy's

Roy Yamaguchi took the local dining scene by storm when he opened the first Roy's Restaurant in Hawai'i Kai (396-7697) in 1988. And he hasn't slowed down since, opening locations across the Mainland and adding another O'ahu location at Ko Olina (676-7697). Described as "Hawaiian Fusion" cuisine, the emphasis here is using exotic flavors and spices to add zing to local ingredients, especially with seafood.

Hy's

This place makes its guests forget that they're in the hustle-and-bustle of Waikiki. Hy's ( 922-5555) feels and looks more like a tony East Coast steakhouse. And, yes. The steaks here are just as tasty as those found at Big Apple steakhouses.

Michel's

Oceanfront dining at Michel's (923-6552) is as romantic as it gets.

A bank of windows opens to the sunset. Torches light up the breakwater and palm fronds sway freely with gentle tradewinds.

All tables have an ocean view, and some of the dishes here date back to classic fine-dining fare, including the French onion soup, steak tartare and Chateaubriand.

Sarento's

Perched 31 stories above Waikiki, Sarento's Top of the "I" (955-5559) impresses not only with its view, but with its Italian cuisine, as well.

The filet Sarento's and swordfish Portofino are two notable entrees.

Chai's Island Bistro

Restaurateur Chai Chaowasaree continues to provide Pacific Rim cuisine, which is complemented by Island musicians who perform nightly at Chai's at Aloha Tower Marketplace (585-0011).

Signature items include the kataifi-and-macadamia-nut-encrusted jumbo prawns and the grilled Mongolian lamb chops with brandy demiglace.

Le Bistro

Chef/owner Alan Takasaki has taken this Niu Valley neighborhood restaurant and made it one of the premier destinations for foodies.

Tucked in a non-descript strip mall, Le Bistro (373-7990) proves that they will come if the food is fine. And it is!

Tokyo Tokyo

Tokyo Tokyo (739-1500) represents Japanese fine dining at its best.

Even the shoyu that's offered here is priced greater than some of the vintages that appear on the wine list.

The ishiyaki steak and fresh sashimi will melt in your mouth.

Hoku's

Hoku's (739-8780) executive chef Wayne Hirabayashi woos visiting Hollywood celebrities with his creative, contemporary Pacific Rim cuisine.

Tantalizing selections from the menu include his renowned aoli dip with warm naan bread, ahi tuna sashimi on seaweed naan with wasabi pesto and a luscious melting chocolate cake.

Sam Choy's

Sam Choy's Diamond Head (732-8645) continues to be a favorite among kamaaina.

Chef Sam Choy dismisses the notion that fine-dining portions must be petit. His certainly aren't.

Nick's Fishmarket

Only at Nick's Fishmarket (955-6333) do waiters still practice the old-school, fine-dining trick of sliding salt-and-pepper shakers toward guests, then informing them to slide them back to the edge if they want their attention.

It's a nice touch that allows for more intimacy, without sacrificing attentive service.

Fresh fish reign supreme here.

21 Degrees North

Appropriately named given Hawai'i's 21 degree north latitude, Turtle Bay Resort's 21 Degrees North (293-8811) reveals a pink sunset and a menu showcasing such specialties as five-spice "lacquered" duck and foie-gras-and-mushroom-filled pot sticker.

John Dominis

An impressive display of fresh fish on a bed of crushed ice, a babbling fountain, hanging vines, a dipping sun and throngs of surfers catching the day's last waves at Kewalo Basin are the sights that greet guests when they visit John Dominis (523-0955).

This is a place that, for most kamaaina, is synonymous with special occasions.

The Bistro at Century Center

Old-world, fine-dining luxury was brought back when The Bistro at Century Center (943-6500) opened at the former location of Alfred's.

Tableside-prepared flambeed steak Diane, duck l'orange and coq au vin represent classic French cuisine.

OnJin's Cafe

By day, OnJin's Cafe (589-1666) offers gourmet plate lunches. By night, OnJin Kim shows off her culinary genius with her signature bouillabaisse and pan-seared spiny lobster.

Neptune's Garden

Neptune's Garden (921-6112 or 922-1233) has stepped up its service and food the past couple of years, bringing it to a fine-dining level.

The seafood martini and bone-in rib-eye steak are crowd pleasers.

Ocean House

Ocean House's (923-2277) hale-like and oceanfront atmosphere makes it an appropriate place to celebrate a special occasion.

The menu boasts eight different types of Hawaiian fish and an Alii cut of prime rib.

Matteo's

Frank Sinatra and NFL superstar Walter Payton were frequent visitors to Matteo's (922-5551), which is known for its Italian cuisine and posh atmosphere.

Donato's

Puglia-born chef-owner Donato Loperfido brings Italian regional cuisine to life at his namesake restaurant in Manoa Market Place (988-2000). His tasting menus are excellent and so, too, is his spezzatino di carni miste (a rich stew of beef, veal, sausage and lamb, served in a clay crock with borlotti beans, in a roasted garlic and truffle sauce).

Azul

Azul (697-0079) has become a "destination" restaurant among kamaaina. Half the dining room seems to be in Italy, while the other half creeps out onto the hotel's romantic garden. The innovative cuisine is certainly worth the drive to Ko Olina.

Ruth's Chris Steak House

Ruth's Chris Steak House (599-3860) continues to be a favorite among steak lovers, who swear by the "Cowboy," bone-in USDA Prime rib-eye steak. Giddy up!

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